There is no doubt that the Amalfi Coast is one of the most beautiful regions in the world. The cliffs here hang adventurously steep from the mountains, one picturesque mountain village follows the next and you can see the azure blue, beautiful Mediterranean Sea from almost everywhere. Positano, Amalfi, Sorrento – you immediately think of Jackie Kennedy and stars and starlets cruising along the coast in convertibles with their hair blowing in the wind. Even if you are probably stuck in traffic jams most of the time on the roads in high season and Positano is overrun by tourists, there is still plenty of grandeur and magic in the air here. It’s best to travel to the region in spring or autumn, because then the big tourist sponges are over, the sea is still warm and the restaurateurs and hoteliers are a lot more relaxed than in the high season. We’ll now tell you where you can get the best sleep, eat the best pasta and drink the most stylish aperitivo:
Villa Treville, Positano
Villa TreVille is one of Positano’s finest gems. Opera director Franco Zeffirelli resided here for over 40 years. A few years ago, the villa was bought by an Italian entrepreneur and transformed into an oasis of luxury. Here, Italy is sophisticated and glamorous. But not only that, you also sleep in beds steeped in history. After all, Zeffirelli invited guests of distinction, such as Liz Taylor, Leonard Bernstein and Elton John. Even if you never actually want to leave the Villa TreVille, if you do want to escape for lunch or an excursion, the hotel’s own Villa TreVille boat is of course always at the ready!
Bianca Bar, Positano
If you are not staying at Villa TreVille but would still like to take a look behind the scenes of the imposing estate, we recommend an aperitif in the Bianca Bar. However, you should book in advance by telephone, as there is a large crowd and only a small number of external guests are allowed per evening. Nevertheless, it is a unique atmosphere to enjoy an aperitif in the cushion-lined Salone Bianca with a view of Positano. An absolute picture-book setting!
Le Sirenuse, Positano
Le Sirenuse is an institution through and through, a grand dame of the hotel industry, you could say the top dog of Positano. Originally conceived as a private holiday home for the Sersale family, the hotel became a hotel after the Second World War and has since been handed down from one generation to the next. Every room here is bursting with charm and individuality. Even if an overnight stay here has its price – there is so much to discover, enjoy and experience in this hotel. One thing should definitely be part of every guest’s programme: an aperitivo in the legendary “Don’t Worry Bar”. Cin Cin!
Franco’s Bar, Positano
Franco’s Bar is a tribute to Franco Sersale, an icon on the Amalfi Coast. His next generation has dedicated one of the coolest hotspots in Positano to him, because there’s no question that Franco’s Bar is the place to be for an aperitivo in Positano. The bar floats elegantly above the sea and you can enjoy the sunset with delicious cocktails. Whether you’re coming straight from a swim or dressed up, everyone who wants to see and be seen comes together here. Reservations are not possible, the motto here is first come first serve!
Da Adolfo, Positano
Da Adolfo is pure Italy and not only the visitors love it, but also the Posetanese. You just have to get hold of one of the Da Adolfo boats with the red fish on the Positano quay, as Da Adolfo is located in a nook of a small bay. A picture-perfect beach shack that couldn’t be more authentic: a lively atmosphere, the plastic sun loungers so typical of Italy, freshly caught fish, the best seafood pasta, homemade scialatielli and a tiramisu for the gods for dessert. In short, Da Adolfo is not to be missed. It is also possible to get here without a boat, but it is a lot more strenuous – to be precise, it is 6 km and around 1000 steps down from the Hotel San Pietro car park.
Casa Privata, Praiano
The Casa Privata – nomen est omen. It’s hard to believe, but even next to the hustle and bustle of Positano, there are still sleepy little villages like Praiano. In 1995, during a boat trip, the Hareiter family discovered the fishing ruin that is now affectionately known as Ca’Pa. But it would be wrong to call Ca’Pa a hotel – it feels more like you’re visiting friends. All the rooms are decorated with exposed frescoes and old fabric wallpaper, there are four-poster beds, a private library and you are spoilt with a view of the endless sea from the moment you arrive until you leave. And the private bathing bay is a real hit!
La Fontelina, Capri
We all know that simplicity is the ultimate luxury, don’t we? This unpretentious beach club hits the nail on the head. In a spectacular location in a bay overlooking Capri’s famous Faraglioni Islands, La Fontelina is all about sun worship, the lapping of the waves and fresh salads, mozzarella, pasta and seafood prepared with the minimum of fuss. For us, it’s the epitome of laid-back barefoot chic. Some say you can get there by ferry from Sorrento and bus to the piazzetta, followed by a long walk in the midday sun. They are crazy. Take a boat and look out for the legendary blue and white striped parasols.
La Tonnarella, Conca dei Marini
Plastic chairs! Who cares about that? We love this classic beach trattoria in a tiny pink house at the foot of a cliff in a rocky bay about a mile east of Grotta dello Smeraldo. It’s hard to believe, but Tonnarella was originally a large tool shed. As with so many of these waterside lunch spots, a boat is the only way to get there. We advise you to go with what chef Angelo recommends that day, as the cuisine is strictly seasonal and the fish is freshly prepared every morning.
Rifugio dei Mele, Nocelle
Rifugio dei Mele is located in the small mountain village of Nocelle, above Positano. There are almost 1,700 steps that connect the coastal road of the Amalfi Coast with the picturesque piazza in front of the church of Nocelle. And every step is worth it! Even more so since the Rifugio dei Mele opened its doors in 2019. For us, the Rifugio is definitely one of the best places to eat in the region. Whether it’s fish, meat, game or seafood, every dish here is recommended. And during the truffle season, you should definitely order pasta tartufo. In short, a perfect place!
Tiberio Palace, Capri
From the outside, the Capri Tiberio Palace doesn’t really stand out from the usual buildings on Capri – a building from the 19020s that is as much a part of Capri as the Blue Grotto. But once you enter, you soon realise that 1950s vintage retro style meets maritime, contemporary design. Interior designer Giampiero Panepinto was inspired by the magic of the island, the unique landscape, the Mediterranean scent of the lemon trees and the glamour. The hotel’s art collection is particularly impressive and it would take two days just to scrutinise every detail. A wonderfully detailed hotel!
Da Gelsomina, Capri
If you’re looking for some peace and quiet away from the hustle and bustle of Capri and all the bling-bling, Da Gelsomina is the place for you. In other words, Da Gelsomina is a true oasis. The best thing is actually to walk here, which takes about half an hour from Capri to Anacapri. All kinds of marvellous views await you on the way. Once you arrive at Da Gelsomina, you will be spoilt with authentic Italian “Nonna” cuisine – and of course a breathtaking view.
… and many more dolce vita tips await you in our Smart Travelling App.